For the man currently touting a fragrance named “F–king Fabulous,” you’d really expect nothing but high wattage, high-sexage glamour from Tom Ford’s return to New York Fashion Week.
And when you think about glamour in its purest form – you know, big hair, big shoulders – it’s hard to go past the 1980s. An era of decadence (and also, it must be said, the glory days for aerobics/leotards) that Ford looked to this season as the opening act.
Speaking backstage with The Hollywood Reporter Ford said of his collection – all strong shoulders, power sequins, high-cut body-suits and sporty separates – in hues of lolly pink, millennial pink, orange and black, “There was certainly a whiff of the ’80s, whereas most of my collections are ’70s and Studio 54, though the waiters outside are very Studio 54.”
Ford, he of the impeccable suits, is also aware of the way we’re dressing now – i.e. the athleisure trend isn’t going anywhere yet, it’s just getting glossier – with a show that separated day wear from the threads we might slink into for the night.
Amid structured suiting and ruched, draped evening gowns were leather joggers, crop tops that required some serious abs and metallic bombers. Pieces, one might imagine, inspired by Ford’s new life in Los Angeles.
But the sexiness Ford is known for remained a constant – from those perilously high-cut bodysuits worn with slouchy, low-slung trousers to models sans trousers in sequinned, ombre tunics.
It-girls ruled the runway, with the likes of Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Joan Smalls and Binx Walton. Meanwhile Kim Kardashian West sat front row, sporting newly platinum hair and an entirely appropriate for the occasion latex dress, alongside Julianne Moore, Ciara and Chaka Khan.
New York Fashion Week will continue until September 13 with the likes of Gabriela Hearst, Rosie Assoulin, Michael Kors and Marchesa on the schedule.
Australian labels Dion Lee, Tome and Zimmermann are also set to show.