What’s on TV: Saturday, March 23

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Gosh Emilia Fox is looking glamorous these days, a walking advertisement for the "40 is the new 30" club. Dawn French, too, pushing an extra decade and a half than her co-star but in cahoots with Fox as they perpetuate the myth that running a restaurant is all about wafting around fragrantly while sipping champagne. The two former wives of a dashing yet deceased head chef (have those words ever been used in a sentence before?) joining forces to run the Penrose hotel and restaurant is no sillier a conceit than many on the box, held together by the charisma of the two leads and the surprisingly emotional storyline this week as Mimi (Sheila Hancock) faces her mortality. Under the froth and bubble it's a series about the whims of fate, the verities of love and loss, and the fact that good hair will get you a long way in life.

Vincent Regan and Dawn French.

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