Despite its stunning natural beauty, fascinating history and richly varied regional cuisine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia remains relatively unknown to American tourists. Bordering on Austria and Slovenia and easily accessible from Croatia, this under-the-radar region is well worth a visit. Its intertwining Central European, Venetian and Slavic traditions make for an atypical Italian culinary tour.
An easy trip by car or train from Venice, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is convenient for an international day or weekend excursion. There, you can linger in cosmopolitan literary cafes, savor prosciutto di San Daniele and fried Montasio cheese in medieval hamlets, sip aromatic Friulian wines, and put together an enviable picnic in the Dolomites. Following are some of the top food and drink highlights for planning your visit.
Coffee culture & seafood in Trieste
The twisty-turny history of this polyglot port is evident in the diversity of its culinary landscape.
Situated on the Adriatic Sea on the Slovenian border, Trieste is the birthplace and headquarters of Illycaffè, founded by Hungarian-born Francesco Illy. Here refined Viennese cafes and their coffee traditions provide refuge from notoriously brutal winds and are an essential part of the city’s soul.
Don’t miss the iconic Caffè degli Specchi on the grand main square Piazza Unità d’Italia, and gorgeous Caffè Tommaseo. Both opened in the 1830s during the city’s Austro-Hungarian rule. A 2013 renovation of Caffè San Marco, a legendary hangout for James Joyce and other literati, included the addition of a cozy bookshop.
Caffè degli Specchi, located on the grand Piazza Unità d’Italia, is an essential stop on any Trieste coffee house tour. From there, it’s a quick walk to pretty Caffè Tommaseo, the oldest of the city’s cafes, opened in 1830. (Photo: Wendy Ramunno Special to USA TODAY)
Trieste’s deep Central European roots are evident at the landmark pork-centric Buffet da Pepi, established in 1897. Counter servers dole out plenty of sauerkraut, mustard and kren (grated horseradish) to accompany hearty platters of meat.
According to a local proverb, when Triestini aren’t at a café, you can find them at the beach. And while there isn’t much in the way of a waterfront restaurant scene in the city proper, the freshest seafood (like sardines prepared in a variety of ways), is widely available and worth seeking out. For high-end seaside dining in a luxury resort atmosphere, drive along the Gulf of Trieste to Portopiccolo Sistiana, on a marina in the Duino cliffs.
A secluded swimming hole in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. (Photo: Wendy Ramunno for USA TODAY NETWORK)
Prosciutto di San Daniele, fried cheese & Aperol spritzes
Much like its capital city Trieste, the heart of Friuli-Venezia Giulia offers a wide range of dining experiences, from a seriously civilized aperitivo ritual, to rustic pasta in mountain villages.
After climbing up to the impressive hilltop castle in the elegant city of Udine, Caffè Contarena is a lovely spot to embrace Friuli-style “spritz life” on stately Piazza della Libertà. Nearby Trattoria Antica Maddalena deftly showcases regional classics, such as polenta, frico (deliciously fried Montasio cheese), and cjalsons, a sweet and savory ravioli.
A sample of lunch offerings at Il Chiosco in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Order the traditional frico, or fried Montasio cheese, which tastes as good as it sounds. (Photo: Wendy Ramunno, Special to USA TODAY)
Friuli-Venezia Giulia has a seemingly limitless number of idyllic towns worth exploring for their castles, cathedrals, and ancient and medieval art, but quaint San Daniele del Friuli tops the food tour list because of its famous prosciutto. Trattoria Ai Cacciatori is an unassuming but excellent wife-and-husband run establishment in Cavasso Nuovo serving typical Friulian dishes with a focus on wild game. Wash it all down with uber-local grappa.
Plenty of vineyards to explore & wines to taste
Across Friuli-Venezia Giulia, some 1,700 vineyards produce 80 million bottles of wine a year in eight DOC zones.
Giampaolo Venica, whose wines can be found in some of the best restaurants in the world, is one of the region’s most enthusiastic ambassadors.
. “The rolling hills with many microclimates surrounded by trees allow for wines with more complexity,” says Giampaolo Venica. (Photo: Wendy Ramunno, Special to. USA TODAY)
His family’s almost-90-year-old Venica & Venica winery is known for its fragrant whites—Friulano, Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyards’ unique location in the picturesque Collio DOC gives the wines impressive depth. “The rolling hills with many microclimates surrounded by trees allow for wines with more complexity,” says Venica.
Tastings at the winery, which has several rooms for rent on the property, naturally feature a bounty of salumi from the best Friulian producers. “We pair the wines with products like local prosciutto, local cheeses and fresh fish from the Adriatic,” he says.
The ultimate picnic in the Dolomites
What do you pack for a picnic in the stunningly beautiful Friulian Dolomites? The finest local products, of course: Montasio cheese, prosciutto di San Daniele, and a bottle or two of an aromatic white like Friulano, Malvasia or Sauvignon Blanc. (Photo: Wendy Ramunno, Special to USA TODAY)
An ideal destination for nature lovers, especially those who prefer a low-key, uncrowded scene, Friuli-Venezia Giulia offers everything from skiing, hiking and biking in the mountains to hot springs in the coastal town of Grado.
In warmer months, one of the best ways to take advantage of the relaxed, family-friendly vibe is to make like a local and pack a waterside picnic in the majestic Friulian Dolomites. You can’t go wrong taking in the views with a hunk of Montasio cheese, some prosciutto di San Daniele and a bottle of Friulano or two.
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