“GET down, you idiot!” shouts our no-nonsense guide, shooing away a tourist taking a selfie on top of a wall at Lindos Acropolis.
Peer over and it is a sheer drop hundreds of feet to the Aegean’s azure waters below, with only the jagged stone of this fortress ruin to break your fall.
We opt for a more sensible way to mark our ascent to the jewel in Rhodes’ archaeological crown and sit sensibly on the edge, feet on the ground.
It is a welcome chance to draw a breath and soak up the scenery after a sweaty climb in the sunshine to the top.
But the view and historic treasures are worth it. Ancient remains here are on an epic scale, from the Temple of Athena Lindia to the 20 Hellenic columns dazzling white in the sun.
With more than 200 steps, it is not a climb for the faint-hearted. But if possible, avoid the temptation to clamber aboard the donkeys that will take you just part of the way.
Stick on a pair of sensible shoes, get a little breathless and reward yourself with a stroll through the narrow streets of Lindos village at the foot of the acropolis.
The cobbled lanes lined by whitewashed houses and stone mansions may now be filled with craft shops, restaurants and bars, but who cares when you can shop for traditional lace and linens, enjoy a mezze in the shade and, by night, a drink or three at one of the cool rooftop bars?
We stopped for lunch at seafront restaurant Mavrikos, cancelling out the calorie-crunching climb with a host of modern riffs on traditional favourites at this family-run restaurant that has been delighting diners since 1912.
The fresh seafood and unusual flavour combinations are outstanding, including cuttlefish ink risotto and pork belly with grape molasses. We roll out with full tummies and sunburned faces and head for the welcome shade of the Valley of the Butterflies.
This, 15km from Rhodes Town, has some special guests between June and September, when millions of colourful moths gather to mate.
If you stroll through the dense forest, with its streams and waterfalls, and peer carefully at moss-covered rocks and tree trunks, you will spot a carpet of insects — camouflaged until they take flight.
The natural delight is yet another surprise on the island, and about as far away from the bright lights of tourist-trap Faliraki as you can get.
The British may have been flocking here for fun in the sun for decades, but there is more to the island than beaches and bars.
Rhodes Town itself and the medieval city could keep any history buff happy for days.
With the soaring city walls and at least 11 gates leading the way into the maze of alleyways, the UNESCO World Heritage site has thousands of years of history to explore, reflecting the many civilisations that have lived, fought and died here.
Gothic churches, ornate mosques and medieval palaces lie waiting to be discovered among the 200 streets and alleyways. It is easy to get lost in the maze of tiny streets and a top tip is to get a local guide to bring it all to life.
Must-sees include the Palace of the Grand Master with its towers, battlements and opulent interiors, and the Archaeological Museum and Hospital of the Knights of St John. Yet Rhodes has many more ways to delight and surprise.
Heading south, we stopped for dinner in the tiny mountain village of Vati, surrounded by forests and olive groves. It is off the beaten path and remains a rural delight.
At the family-run Taverna Platanos, we joined locals as they relaxed and chatted in the square under the branches of an ancient tree.
Roasted feta, flavoursome tomatoes and plate after plate of mezze marvels were followed by a robust goat stew and some delicate fresh fish.
It was just a few miles from our base on the south of the island, the new Gennadi Grand Resort, and the contrast could not have been greater.
This modern marvel is a 5-star design-led, low-rise resort right on the shores of a lovely beach and exudes a cool, calm and classy air. The high-spec contemporary rooms, some with private pools, have all the mod cons — and some.
Go all-inclusive and there is the chance to enjoy not just the main restaurant with its waiter service but also speciality venues, from a traditional Greek Ouzeri to a steakhouse and beach-front deli. There are four pools, including a shallow one perfect for kids and a huge fitness centre.
While the grounds were still freshly planted on our trip, by this summer the landscaping will be very much bedded in.
There are plenty of watersports available at the hotel at extra cost, from paddle boarding and waterskiing to kayaking.
GO: RHODES
GETTING/STAYING THERE: On The Beach has seven nights’ B&B at the 5H Gennadi Grand Resort from £389; half-board from £613pp, including flights from UK airports.
To stay near Rhodes, the 5-star Electra Palace Hotel has seven nights’ half-board from £463pp including flights from UK airports. To book, see onthebeach.co.uk or call 0871 474 3000.
OUT & ABOUT: Rhodes Rib Experience offers a 30-minute sightseeing tour from 20 euros adult/15 euros child or a five-hour trip complete with lunch and drinks from 80 euros per adult and 40 euros per child. See rhodesribexperience.com.
But we chose to top off our trip with a real celeb-style treat — taking to the warm, clear waters for a five-hour tour of the coastline with Rhodes Rib Experience.
This beauty of a speedboat trip comes complete with lunch and unlimited champers, as well as free wifi so you can send friends at home wild with jealousy with your Insta snaps.
We moored up in Navarone Bay for a dip and although it was tempting to lean over the edge of our fab ride just a little too far for the perfect picture, I had to remember — always practise safe selfies.
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