As Aberdovey appeared on the horizon, we realised why it’s known as ‘the jewel of Cardigan Bay’. Even on a bleak day in winter, this charming village in Mid Wales shone bright through the grey weather.
Nestled at the point where the mountains of Snowdonia meet the sea, the summer months see Aberdyfi – to give its Welsh name – packed with holidaymakers, drawn to its three-mile stretch of stunning sandy beach and dunes, with brightly painted Victorian houses dotted along the seafront.
But in early January it was a different story – blissfully peaceful, with only the occasional walker braving the elements. It was perfect for the relaxing break we had in mind and just what the doctor ordered to banish the winter blues.
And above the village, perched at the top of Balkan Hill, surrounded by rolling green hills, was our base for the weekend. We quickly settled into Erw Gwenllian, a stylish converted farmhouse with vaulted ceiling and oak beams.
With four large double rooms, three bathrooms and a huge open plan living room and kitchen, it’s well suited for families and wonderfully spacious for just the two of us.
Standout feature were the floor-to-ceiling windows through which we watched the ever-changing patterns of sea and sky, sipping a glass of wine or three, snuggled up and warm thanks to underfloor heating and a big wood burner.
Eventually we ventured out to walk the half mile to Aberdyfi and its art galleries, shops and cafes, and even took a bracing stroll along the beach which we practically had all to ourselves.
Having worked up an appetite we headed back into Aberdyfi and opted for a Sunday roast in the Dovey Inn although the slightly more upmarket menu at The Penhelig Arms at the east end of the village was tempting.
The next day we decided to go further afield to Portmeirion, curious to see this unique holiday village made famous by the cult 1960s TV series The Prisoner. It’s about an 80-minute journey by car but you can also travel by train to nearby Minffordd from either of Aberdovey or Penhelig rail stations.
The colourful fishing village of Portofino was architect Clough Williams-Ellis’s inspiration for this Italian-esque village set in its own private peninsula. Building began in 1925 and continued in stages until its completion in 1976.
Amid 70 acres of sub-tropical woodland gardens and quaint, classically-styled buildings, we could easily imagine we were holidaying on the Italian Riviera – until a sharp blast of chilly wind served as a sharp reminder we were really in Wales in the middle of winter (Adult tickets from £11, 5-15 years £7.50, free for under-fives).
The drive back through the rugged landscape of Snowdonia past the breathtaking Lake Tal-y-llyn took rather longer, as we just had to stop every few minutes to take pictures of the staggering scenery.
Our break in Aberdyfi may have cured our January blues but we both agreed we could happily return no matter what the time of year.
Book the holiday
STAY: Premier Cottages offers a week self-catering in Erw Gwenllian, which sleeps eight in four bedrooms, from £966. A three-night weekend is from £821. Call 0117 325 8810 for more information.
TOURIST INFO: You can find out more at visitwales.com.
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