From Romans to Moors to Portuguese kings, the proud little town of Évora — set amid the cork groves of Portugal’s Alentejo region — has a big history. Just 90 minutes east of Lisbon, Évora has impressive sights — Roman ruins, a 12th-century cathedral and a macabre chapel of bones — coupled with a laid-back local scene and a hearty cuisine that makes me think of Tuscany.
From the second century B.C. to the fourth century A.D., Évora was a Roman town important for its wealth of wheat and silver, as well as its location on a trade route to Rome. From the eighth to the 12th century, the Moors ruled Évora. During its Renaissance glory years, Évora was favored by Portuguese kings, even serving as the home of King João III, who presided over Portugal’s peak of power (and its first decline).
Évora’s walled city is compact. The main sights cluster within a five-minute walk of the main square, Praça do Giraldo — named for Giraldo the Fearless, the Christian knight who led a surprise attack and retook Évora from the Moors in 1165. As thanks, Giraldo was made governor of the town and the symbol of the city. The square served as the town’s market during the Moorish period, and to this day it remains a center of commerce and conviviality for country folk who come to Évora for their weekly shopping.
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