How to wear… the ruffled collar

Fashion has come over all modest in the past few years, which means the once-maligned blouse is enjoying a boomtime. In recent seasons, we’ve seen blouses revitalised with Bardot necklines, puff sleeves and prints, but in 2020, prepare for the ruffle collar to dominate.

The Victorian motif re-emerged on the catwalks last spring, but by the time the autumn-winter shows rolled around, it was everywhere. Designers in all four fashion capitals took the idea and ran with it, presenting collars that ranged from classically ladylike to over-the-top clownish.

At Brock Collection, it came in the form of an ornate gold jacquard skirt suit, the collar bursting out over the lapels of a black coat, and in a concluding series of finely tailored floral frocks topped with red, black and pastel printed neck ruffles. Erdem’s extravagant floral evening gowns were embellished with high ruffled collars, completing the modest feel of the long sleeves, hems and patterned tights in gorgeous and darkly romantic fashion.

Céline favoured retro over romance, layering white and grey ruffled blouses under crew-neck knits and cardigans, teamed with jeans or this season’s culottes and slouchy knee boots.

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There was more of an ’80s feel in Alberta Ferretti’s grey ruffle-neck jumper tucked into winter-white high-waisted trousers and Rodarte’s sumptuous puff-shoulder, ruffled collar blouses, jumpsuits and prom dresses.

Roksanda can be relied upon to provide a modern, sculptural take on the look, as she did with ultra-high necklines on architectural ochre and fuchsia tiered gowns, while at Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller used fishing wire to create the wavy neck ruffles in her pretty plissé floral dresses.

By now, ruffled collar blouses can be easily acquired all over the high street, and you’re bound to find plenty of options in the sales, too. It’ll be a worthwhile investment – such a blouse makes getting dressed a cinch: just add trousers and you’re done.

Plus, unlike the statement sleeves and prints of so many trendy blouses, this is one you can impress with whatever the weather, as the collar will still be visible poking out from underneath even the hardiest winter coat.

See Kate Middleton, whose Sézane blouse peeks out from her crew-neck jumper and utility jacket. It brings a lovely feminine flourish, giving the simple, casual look some subtle drama.

If you prefer a bit more flair, look to Cate Blanchett, who delivers full Gucci maximalism on the highest difficulty setting. The rest of us couldn’t pull off a snakeskin blazer and vivid green patent trousers, but the bold blouse, we can just about manage.

The shirred ruffle collar offers an intriguing update on the poloneck, and this bit of spectacle means we can play down the rest of our outfit – a pair of jeans will do fine, as it’s the collar that’s the main event.

Alternatively, you can elevate your ruffle collar with a dress rather than a blouse, thus eliminating the need to even worry about what trousers or skirt to pair it with.

Emilia Clarke opted for one such with a blazer and knee-high boots at a recent film screening.

Her stand-up neck ruffle gives the now-ubiquitous floral midi-dress a refresh, while the blazer brings an element of androgyny to the delicate florals and frills.

The high neckline also means you can go short as you like with your hem. A miniskirt will balance out the primness of the ruffle collar nicely. However you choose to wear it, the collar is going nowhere – you’d better get used to ruffing it.



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