Chase the Northern Lights from the city of Tromso — Norway's gateway to the Arctic

So why not combine your hunt with a city break to delve into Nordic culture while you wait for the midnight show?

And there is nowhere better than Tromso, a compact city on a small island off the Norwegian coast perched among stunning, snow-capped mountains and fjords.

Dubbed the Gateway to the Arctic, Tromso is scenic, untouched — and absolutely freezing.

Wrap up nice and warm though and you will be rewarded with incredible views, lovely food and — if you are lucky — a sight of the aurora borealis.

The easiest way to get to the remote northern outpost is a direct Norwegian Air flight from Gatwick that takes three-and-a-half hours.

You can be cosied up in your hotel room within 30 minutes of touchdown if you hop in a cab or take the shuttle for the short ride from airport to city.

We stayed at the Clarion Collection Hotel, which has incredible views of the port and mountain — and complimentary waffles in the afternoon.

Those waffles are welcome, as the cost of living in oil-rich Norway is very high.

Whether it’s the delicious Spanish-inspired bacalao fish dish, reindeer steaks or dried fish soup, you will feel it in the wallet. A pint of the local Mack beer will set you back the equivalent of £8. Ouch.

Fortunately, the beer is as fresh as it comes because Tromso is home to the most northern brewery in the world.

The Olhallen pub is the place to sample it. It has a wall of regularly changing beers on tap — plus a giant polar bear you can have your photo with after a few pints.

The city centre is small but there is still plenty to do for a short weekend getaway.

The Polar Museum is worth a visit to learn about the incredible tales of Arctic exploration.

And a short walk across the bridge will land you at the impressive Arctic Cathedral.

Don’t head straight back after though, as there is a hidden gem a few minutes away that has been open just two years.

Brave the cold and head up the slopes to the cable car for a stunning panorama of Tromso, the surrounding snowy mountains and glistening Arctic seas.

But perhaps the real magic of Tromso is what you can do outside the city.

We travelled with tour operator Best Served Scandinavia to Camp Tamok (around 90 minutes from Tromso) for a husky dog tour. You can also opt to for snowmobiles and Arctic pick-up trucks.

New at the camp for 2018 is an ice dome tour and lunch.

These huge hand-sculpted igloos are covered in ice carvings and there are plans to build an ice hotel next year. But with a permafrost of -4C inside, you will want a pretty hefty sleeping bag.

Having said that, the ice domes are warm compared to outside, which hit a near-painful -15C.

You are given a snow suit and gloves to go over your own winter outfit but frostbite is still a worry.

Anyone hoping for photos with the huskies might be disappointed, though, as a camera battery can die in such extreme conditions.

You will be back from any expedition for nightfall and a chance to glimpse those pesky Northern Lights.

If the skies are clear and the solar activity is strong, Tromso will reward you with a show of the lights over the harbour.

But you can also head out into the wilderness for a late-night Northern Lights hunt that leaves the city around 7pm and returns in the early hours.

You arrive at a remote camp where you sit around a roaring fire cooking meatballs, pancakes and marshmallows on whittled sticks before heading into the freezing night to see the lights and get that perfect Instagram shot.

Oh, about those photos. The Northern Lights always look way better through a camera.

Our human eyes are not good enough to see the true magic of the lights — and the electric greens and pinks are only visible on long-exposure shots.

Forget getting the perfect picture, though. Just watching the pale green lights dancing and swirling above you is enchanting.

Our best show came after we had given up and were on the coach back at 1am.

Our driver swiftly pulled over, woke us up and we bundled out to watch the whole sky light up.

The perfect end to a great introduction to life in the Arctic.

GO: NORWAY

GETTING/STAYING THERE: Best Served Scandinavia has a four-day tailor-made city break in Tromso from £515pp in November, flying Norwegian from Gatwick to Tromso, plus three nights’ half-board at the Clarion Collection Hotel. Upgrade to a premium break including Northern Lights Hunt & Aurora Safari to Base Camp and a husky sled drive for a supplement of £305pp. The ice dome lunch excursion starts from £115pp. To book call 020 7664 2241 or visit best-served.co.uk.

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